Four Theories of Informalization and How to Test Them

Abstract

Informalization of demeanor (especially clothing, grooming) and deference (manners) is charted by a chronology of photos from 1900 to the present. Four theories are tested: (1) arbitrary style cycles; (2) democratization; (3) status reversal; (4) antinomian situational dominance. Democratization is prominent in the period before 1960, pushed largely by political movements; thereafter, antinomian style movements drive most changes, including competition over the sexiness elite; the athletic fantasy elite; and the anti-sexy, anti-athletic look. All of the more recent movements hide social class inequalities, although the elaboration of originally upper-class athletic clothing has been the most important pathway in twentieth century changes in self-presentation century changes in self-presentation.